Day 14: Le Brévent & Aiguille du Midi, France - 12,604 Feet Above France

Friday, July 14, 2023

Chamonix, France

The next morning in Chamonix, France, we looked out the window and the weather was crystal clear— perfect for our biggest adventure in France. 

Aiguille du Midi, Left of Mont Blanc

We ate breakfast and went down to the bus stop.  

To compliment our coffee selection, we first stopped at Old Richards, a bakery, where we got some croissants to go. The pastries looked so good, we ordered desserts to pick up later that evening.  

I would like to reiterate, the utter superiority of European desserts to American dishes.  They literally invented desserts. Be warned, if you eat desserts in Europe, they will ruin your taste for anything less. 

We made our way to the next coffee shop, which was called, “Natifs Cafe”.  As I choose excellent coffee shops, there is one pattern I’ve noticed.  The greatest espresso is made with La Marzocco espresso machines.  This cafe was no exception.  I spoke with the owner briefly, asking if a drink with foam and chocolate power was a cappuccino. For me, this was a litmus test.  If the over-foamed drink was a cap, I knew the espresso quality was below par. However, his response, “We do not put chocolate power on cappuccinos here!”  I knew I had come to the right place.  They had only been in business for 3 years.

The coffee was amazing.  I was thrilled I had found 3 great cafes in town.  Unfortunately, they asked us not to eat our pastries at their outside table— since the cook made their own croissants in-house.  

Day after day, I was constantly searching Google Maps, Yelp, and websites, and asking for recommendations for good coffee places.  It got me thinking; wouldn't it be great if there was an app for that? hmm...

We walked through downtown uphill to a familiar street.  

This very steep street was the same one my dad and I walked up on our first day in Chamonix in 2013 — right before our 12-day hike.  We stayed at a ski chalet, very similar to a hostel, that first night.  I walked the same road with my family now. 

But instead of going to sleep at a chalet, we took a cable car (must-pass) up the steep Eastern side of the valley.  We admired the hikers below us climbing the steep switch-back trails up the mountainside.  

We arrived to the top and admired the view.  We realized there was another large cable car taking people to an even further destination.  So, we climbed aboard. 

We got off at Brévent, a mountain-top panorama that was mind-blowing.

We walked around, in awe of the view, when I saw an arch with the name, “Brévent”.  But right below the sign, there was another sign with four letters: “CTMB”.  This stands for “Cu Tour Du Mont Blanc”.

  

Memories came rushing back at me unexpectedly.  I had been here before.  It was 2016, the 2nd trip I took with my parents, hiking the Alps.  We were on a trail, called, “Tour du Mont Blanc”.  It took two weeks to complete and on the last day, I had hiked ahead of my parents, telling them I would meet them at the top of the mountain…. At Brévent.  

Hans, Hiking ahead to Brévent, 2016

I had moved ahead quickly, pushing myself to scale the steep trails.  Almost taking side trails, but staying on course.  Then, I finally climbed to the top.  It was Brévent.  

Hans and random hikers, ascending Brévent, 2016

There I got a beer and waited for my parents. And waited.  It was cold and foggy at the top.  Tourists and hikers were mulling around.  My parents were supposed to be there, but they weren’t.  

Ibex: mountain goat, Brévent, 2016

Brévent Panorama Resturant, 2016

Hans, waiting for parents, Brévent, 2016

Descending from Brévent via cable car, 2016

After an hour or two of waiting for them, I decided I would descend via cable cars, back down to Chamonix.  I rode the cars down until I came to the steep road, and followed it downtown, where I came to the tourist center.  My parents were there.  They had taken the wrong trail and took a cable car ahead of me.  (Read full story on the Hiking the Alps 2016 Blog)

Here in the present, these memories resurfaced from the past— like cable cars drifting up from the mist.  But today, I was with my family.  The skies were clear and it was a beautiful day.  

We took pictures where I had once stood, finishing the Tour du Mont Blanc, worried about my mom and dad. We decided to savor the experience and get a drink at, “Le Panoramic Du Brévent”, a cliff-mounted restaurant overlooking the steep mountain drop to the valley of Chamonix.  Across the valley, Mont Blanc, with its snow-capped dome glistening in the sun.  It was calling to us, and we would go to it.  

We took the cable cars back down to Chamonix.  

I requested we stopped by the ski chalet where my dad and I stayed our first night in France exactly one decade ago. We walked there and I took Jonas inside, he with me, instead of my dad.  Who knows, maybe Jonas and I would return here someday to hike the same trails my father and I did, long ago…

Hans and Bob the day before starting the Haute Route, Ski Station Chalet Refuge, 2013

Hans and Jonas, revisiting the Ski Station Chalet Refuge ten years later, 2023

We walked back down the steep road back to Chamonix city center.  We stopped by the church and took a moment to pray. 

We headed to our next destination.  I made a reservation for our family.  This experience, along with Brévent, were both covered by our Mont Blanc Multi-pass.  The pass definitely paid for itself and more. This would be, by far, the best and most spectacular experience of our time in France.  

The Aiguille du Midi is a two cable car ride up to 2842 meters.  On top of the mountain, there is a structure — like a fortress, perched on a treacherous ragged peak.  It was 4 degrees C.  It takes 30 to 40 minutes to get there. 

We rode the cable cars up the steep mountain, Alina nervous from previous experience with altitude sickness. But she did great throughout the whole trip.  

Once we got off the final cable car, we walked through a rock tunnel to a bridge exposed to the air and mind-blowing views.  We felt like we were at the top of the world.  We saw the whole valley, Mont Blanc (which seemed very close!), and all the other amazing mountain ranges that surrounded the valley.  We even saw hikers climbing rock faces, ice, and snow!

We continued in a line to an elevator that took us even higher.  The views were majestic. I opted to wait in line to “Step into the Void”, a section of the building that was like a glass box that stuck out of the building, so it felt like you were suspending over a huge drop.  It took 30 minutes, but I felt like it was worth it.  

 "Mont Blanc (French: Mont Blanc); Italian: Monte Bianco, both meaning "white mountain") is the highest mountain in the Alps and Western Europe, and the highest mountain in Europe outside the Caucasus mountains, rising 4,807.81 m (15,774 ft) above sea level, located on the French-Italian border.[3] It is the second-most prominent mountain in Europe, after Mount Elbrus, and it is the eleventh most prominent mountain summit in the world." Wikipedia

We walked through “Le Tube”, a metal tunnel that traces the south face of the Aiguille du Midi.  Then we walked through a snow tunnel and enjoyed watching rock climbers descend a large rock above us. As we were making our way back, we walked next to an exit barred by a low gate.  There, climbers in full ice gear, were getting ready to descend.  It was like looking into an unknown world, where adventures go on death-defying descents.  

Jonas and Alina were ready to go home, so after a few more pictures, we got in line to head back down the mountain.  Everyone is given a group number to assign a cable car to go down in.  They give you about 2 hours, then you get in line to go down in cable cars— which is 99% of the tourists’ only option.  So, descending in cable cars is a very popular attraction. 

On our way down, I was able to zoom in on Col du Balme, way on the other side of the valley. 

When returned to the valley, we went to a 4D 15-minute film about Mont Blanc.  We wore 3D glasses and instead of sitting in a theater, we stood and had audible, visual, and physical experiences, like wind blowing, water spraying, and platforms that move— almost like a rollercoaster. It was a ton of fun.  

That was a very long day and also our last day to spend in Chamonix, so we decided to treat ourselves to the rare dinner out.  We went to La Calèche, a traditional Swiss restaurant (in France) that was recommended by a local.  We sat inside and the decor was very cool.  I decided to introduce my family to raclette, a traditional dish, similar to fondue, except, instead of melting cheese in a pot, you get a big slice of cheese and melt it with two toaster-like panels.  As the cheese melts, you scrape it off onto potatoes, vegetables, and meat. It is delicious. 

After the amazing meal, we walked it off, stopping by the pastry shop to pick up dessert on the way home.  We rode the train home and spent our last evening enjoying French pastries and packing up for our next adventure.  

This was turning out to be a trip of a lifetime…